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Ursula Makeover & Modernisation PT IV: 18 months Later...
Ursula Makeover & Modernisation PT IV 18 months later...
Eighteen months of mixed-terrain fun and a few subtle changes down the line, it's time to reflect upon Ursula's modernisation. For the most part, I'm delighted with the transformation, and there are a wealth of benefits to this update. However, there are still a few serious considerations before adding discs and other features to older framesets.
Even High-End Components Reach Retirement
After five years hard service, Ursula’s external cup titanium bottom bracket finally got the grumbles in April 25, so was switched for a less exotic but steadfastly reliable Shimano XT. This also presented the obvious opportunity to regrease the 2x10 Deore axle.
Deore is a groupset that some folks can get a little sniffy about, but has a special place in my heart, much as STX and STX RC did during the late 90s. Decent performance but wallet friendly and inexpensive to replace should a rock claim a rear mech. If someone waved an XT under my nose and at the right price, I might indulge but otherwise see no reason to upgrade. Same story when talking the rear Tiagra.
Talking of mechs, I switched the old, but very worthy 1990s 7 speed Deore LX front over to Denise Denise, 12 Months Down the Trail | cycling-not-racing when upgrading to a 2x10 I’d bought a replacement but also acquired a New Old Stock SR Suntour XR300. The latter triple wasn’t compatible with Denise, so was switched to Ursula, coinciding with chain replacement. It’s a little crude and designed for 7/8 speed but scoops the chain back and forth very reliably. I’ve another Deore LX from the late 90s just in case…
Rugged simplicity coupled with the option of switching to friction are arguably the main selling points of bar end shifters. No amount of gentle coaxing would persuade the right side and Tiagra rear mech to communicate and play nicely, so I resorted to replacing the shifter and cable. Comforting click and chain sweeping back and forth across the block restored.
General Upgrades & Personal Quirks
Curiosity saw me switching this Topeak Road Master Blaster Topeak Road Master Blaster Frame Pump | cycling-not-racing over from Muffin Bicycle Strip Down and Rebuild | cycling-not-racing to Ursula. Though on paper, I’d be surprised that it would fit the 17.5-inch frameset, but it’s worth remembering that mid to late nineties cross country mountain bike framesets had long top tubes for a more stretched, aggressive stance. In this instance 21.3 inches, which proved bespoke for the pump.
Proof of tenure was off-road, and during our first outing, I wasted no time in taking a left turn and letting rip along two miles of leafy bridlepath. Inner tube wrapped around the top tube undoubtedly provides some additional grip, but the pressure fit is perfect, holding the pump steady, while still allowing ready, convenient access when required.
Portable compressor type inflators are increasingly popular and they’re very convenient- I don’t hop in the saddle without one, typically the Cycplus AS2 Pro Max CycPlus AS2 Pro Max E.Pump | cycling-not-racing or Muc-Off Airmach Muc-Off Airmach Electric Inflator Pro | cycling-not-racing.
I’d still recommend some form of secondary pump, since even fully charged, most can only do 2-3 tyres. Murphey’s Law means you’ll succumb to a fourth flat at the least opportune moment, or ironically, having played Good Samaritan. Either way, there’s nothing worse than being stranded 30 miles from base.
Having experimented with various bottle and cage configurations, I’m pleased to report no issues with access, or indeed shouldering the bike. I’ve stuck with the Mudhugger rear guard, which provides excellent defence against mud, gloop and waterlogged lanes but found the front a little heavy for my tastes, so went for this less fetching two-tier design that offers generous clearance and protection.
Regulars will know I prefer powder coating over wet spray finishes-at least when prepared and applied by a suitably skilled, sensitive and qualified finisher. I'm pleased to report I made the right choice both in terms of colour and that applied by the third-party contractor is proving very durable and my chosen shade of grey is similarly simple to match, should I need to retouch.
Just because you can doesn't mean you should...
There’s a lot to consider before taking this route with an older frameset. I would start by having a very clear idea of what you want from the build and a clear budget. I bought Ursula as a frameset as new old stock back in 1999, so was acutely aware of its history and how it had been ridden and cared for. Hard though it would’ve been, given my attachment, had serious structural damage been found, I would’ve pensioned the frame off, rather than have tube(s) replaced.
A Surly Ghost Grappler was a production model high up on my list. Other options included a well-cared for early On One Inbred with disc mounts, horizontal frame ends and a derailleur hanger that could also entertain a single speed, or hub geared setup- the latter being the most likely configuration.
Lots of people are converting older cross country mountain bike framesets to discs and in some cases thru axles. However, because everyone's doing something, doesn't mean it's a universally good decision. Lee Cooper strongly advised against adding disc mounts to a late 1980s frameset such as Denise given the tubing and forces involved. Then of course, there's the silent killer-corrosion could be hiding within the frame's inner sanctum, compromising structural integrity before any heat, let alone mounts are introduced. Therefore, consult with an experienced frame builder and never attempt to cajole, or persuade them to undertake work they are not comfortable doing.
Winston Vaz is a very experienced frame builder and was confident it was viable, employing a brace to prevent twisting of the seat and chainstay regions. Omitting the brace would compromise braking and, of course, the tubing's structural integrity with time. Bottom line, don't cut corners but cost these projects very carefully and have a very clear budget. Better to stick with rim brakes rather than falling headlong into an all consuming a money pit.
Other Considerations
While discs are powerful and offer consistent, progressive stopping and dissipate heat more efficiently, properly honed cantilevers and V brakes are still very powerful and lighter. Discs will also consume pads at a comparatively rapid rate, although rotor wear is relatively pedestrian and replacements relatively inexpensive, especially set against the cost of carbon, or similarly expensive rims.
Sticking with the quick-release, rather than thru-axle design, I've noticed some very slight flex, which was easily addressed by switching from a standard skewer lever to a trailer hitch, which clamps tighter, while allowing easy coupling of the trailer. It was either this or a locking "anti-theft" skewer.
Crystal Balls, Reflections & Future Plans
Eventually, all our bikes evolve and become decidedly unique. I’m not planning any wholesale revisions and I have only replaced stuff that’s worn out or essential for the makeover. I already had callipers, pads, rotors etc in stock. The new configuration gives scope for slotting in 650b wheels, should I wish, but for the time being, there’s still ample tyre choice for old school 26-inch hoops.
In retrospect, I wish I’d left the Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork Carbon Cycles Exotic Fork | cycling-not-racing alloy steerer a little longer, meaning I could switch from the Soma Condor II SOMA CONDOR 2 SHALLOW DROP BARS | to some wide swoopy gravel drops with more uniform diameter. This would make accessories easier to fit and align correctly. Given the positioning is otherwise perfect, and the fork is in rude health, both are staying.
Some would argue I could take the Aheadset extender route as a means of extending the fork steerer, thus allowing a different choice of handlebar. They may provide a solution, but place additional force on the steerer tube, running the risk of bending, or breakage. In my book, I'm better served going for a short stubby stem with a 45mm rise, which for me seems a more reliable option. The other consideration is bar width. The Condor II though fairly generous, don’t have the more extreme flare of some gravel designs. While offering superb leverage and control, these can also make navigating narrower gaps, whether singletrack, or concrete jungle, trickier.
In terms of stopping, I'm keeping things simple and cable-operated, no matter how tempting hydraulics are. I’m a big fan of Tektro brakes and find their levers exceptional value for money. However, having run them long-term, repaying their modest investment many times over, I find inner wires eventually wear through the RL520’s resin cable run. In terms of timescale, we’re talking two to three years in my experience. Replacement has been whittled down to Dia Compe-either the 287, or the more elegant Evo V with their forged, sculpted levers and voluptuous hoods.
The Evo V certainly have a sexier aesthetic but I'm not sure this justifies the additional cost- Muffin sports a single 287 and find the shape, not to mention modulation and feel perfectly acceptable commanding a TRP Spyre SLC. A hydraulic setup is undeniably seductive, but more complex and would need to be at the right price. Good quality compression less cables, such as these Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake Kit | cycling-not-racing also narrow the gap somewhat, although push comes to shove, hydraulics remain king on the stopping front.
The Topeak Uni Super Tourist DX rack is an excellent load lugger and there’s the trailer option for when things get bigger and heavier. I remain very fond of Carradice’s SQR range, not least the Carradry CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing. However, being post-mounted can create issues with heavier loads and handling. Bike packing luggage is also great-better aerodynamics being one advantage. However, there’s little space within Ursula’s main triangle and I like the rigidity of a rack, which is also much cheaper to pop down the powder coaters when the factory finish looks tired.
Bikes evolve, sometimes subtly, such as winter bikes conceived from retired race components. Other times it's more structured. Many bikes become part of the family and that certainly applies to Ursula. The old girl has earned her keep, racking up miles in the foulest weathers, towed big loads long distances and served as a go anywhere tag along tug. Above all else, she’s never failed to put a big grin on my face.
Michael Stenning















