Unsung Heroes

Spring and rider minds turn to sunny days and long outings on the best bike(s). The one(s) that get put away come the falling leaves and into hibernation until April/May, depending on the weather. However, despite their considerable charms and capacity to put massive grins on our faces, our favourite bikes aren’t necessarily pared to the essentials thoroughbreds.  In fact, I find people’s working bikes- their choice of components and sometimes unique features far more interesting.

For me, a working bike is practical, but not a neglected hack. One you’re not afraid to expose to the dark, wet days (and properly dressed for them) but one that you want to get out on and still gets shown decent amounts of love and attention. For me, this means metal frames, tough, sometimes plain pain jobs, dependable, stout wheels and tyres, reliable rather than sexy components.  

Lighting is another important consideration. Dynamos have advanced so much in recent years. Dynohubs, Shimano Nexus DH-UR700-3D Dynamo Hub | cycling-not-racing  HALO EVURA & SHUTTER PRECISION SL9 DYNOHUB BUILDand high-power lamps are my defaults but there’s plenty of choice K LITE BIKEPACKER ULTRA DYNAMO LIGHT | cycling-not-racing. Not only is lighting on tap, but there’s something very satisfying about generating your own. I still carry a compact light as backup, or should I need to tackle a puncture, or similar roadside mechanical.  

Rechargeable lights have also advanced considerably and relatively sophisticated lenses, a range of modes for economy and power, good weatherproofing and reliable mounts are pretty standard. Remotes, though not essential also mean you can keep your hands on the bars while selecting a different setting. Some also adjust the output automatically, say when going from brightly lit town centres to underpasses, or a rural environment.    

On the flip side, race bikes can be working bikes- following a similar narrative. Racing is hard on rider and machines alike. Components need to be reliable. There will likely be a few battle scars- the odd nick and scrape in the paintwork. However, cosmetics aside, it will be impeccably maintained.  Components that have lost the competitive edge (and likely sport signs of cosmetic wear) but otherwise perform reliably can be transferred to a winter trainer and continue repaying their investment.

Having worked in the retail end of the cycle industry in my dim and distant past, I was often asked “What’s the best bike?”. This was typically asked in the hope I would name a specific brand and model. My genuine response “The best bike is one that does what we need it to do”. For example, you could commute to work on a track bike (with a single front brake), its low maintenance but the geometry will also mean its tiring to ride on metalled roads. Fitting mudguards is trickier- beyond the post mounted type, which in fairness can protect us from a drenched derriere.

Luggage is going to be limited to as messenger bag, or rucksack. Again, fine for shorter hops… A road fixed with more relaxed geometry, provision for full length mudguards and a rack are far better bets. I’m not fond of conversions. Well, that’s not strictly true. Inspired by a deputy editor’s 1948 Freddy Grubb, my first fixed was based around a 501 tubed Raleigh Record Sprint and we racked up many thousands of miles before I spotted a chink of daylight where head and down tubes met. I scrapped it, salvaging what I could for a geared build that served as my winter/trainer through university.

Thankfully, production framesets with track ends are also quite plentiful, thanks to the sudden fixie explosion between 2003 and 2010. On-One’s MKII Ilpompino was closer to a cyclo crosser and the best fit for me, thanks to the geometry, clearance for 32mm tyres, rack and mudguard mounts. The MK1 employed 135mm mountain bike spacing, meaning bombproof single speed mtb hubs, or hub gears would slot straight in.  I also have a very soft spot for Kona’s Paddywagon, which was a crudely a winter road bike with track ends, provision for 28mm tyres with full length mudguards and two bottle mounts.  

Traditional touring bikes with their relaxed geometry, strong brakes racks, full length mudguards and enough gears to ride up down and along the great wall of China are the other extreme. They’re great for longer distances and/or towing child trailers/tagalongs and are still fairly responsive. Steve’s dearly departed Dawes Galaxy (since replaced by the Surly Long-Haul Trucker) being a classic example.  Thorn’s Sherpa follows a similar rough stuff touring narrative and also based around 4130 Cro-moly tubes with the full complement of braze-ons, powder coated paintwork and designed around 26-inch mtb wheels.  

However, keeping older 3X drivetrains impeccably behaved year-round can be a chore).  Since we’re talking drivetrains, let’s not forget pedals. Recessed cleats that allow us to plod about with dignity off the bike are for me an obvious choice. I default to dual sided SPDs for easy entry/exit-especially on the fixed, where I don’t wasn’t to be concerned with flicking pedals over.

That said, hybrid designs- flat one side, cleated the other with broader bodies are extremely versatile. Allows quick scoots to the shops, or to see friends in street shoes, efficient power transfer when covering bigger distances. Steve was very impressed by the Genetic Switch GENETIC SWITCH PEDALS | cycling-not-racing  and I’ve racked up some impressive mileages with Shimano A530 Simple Pedal Overhaul | cycling-not-racing 

Older production touring framesets with 531 ST main tubes and plain gauge rear triangles sound like a cost cutting exercise and that was true, to some extent. However, they make very good workhorses, and the plain gauge tubing’s lateral stiffness works well with trailers and tagalongs- handy for taking younger children, or pets along.    

Rigid, mid-range cross country mountain bikes are other obvious candidates. Plenty of braze-ons ensure racks and full-length guards are easily fitted. Gearing and geometry mean they also make excellent trailer and tagalong tugs. 26-inch wheels have been eclipsed by 27.5 but there’s still plenty of choice when it comes to road going and dual- purpose rubber. From spiked/studded tyres for Ice and snow, such as these Schwalbe Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro Tyres | cycling-not-racing through to narrow slicks for blasting along.  Smaller wheels also accelerate faster and can be nimbler around the potholes, shards of glass and similar hazards.  

However, in common with road-biased tourers, keeping a 3x drivetrain on song year-round can be time consuming. Similarly, check for potential heel clearance issues that can occur with smaller framesets and 20 litre panniers.  Steve’s Surly Long-Haul Trucker is essentially a rough stuff tourer, reminiscent of a touring mountain bike based around the older, pre disc frameset and 26-inch wheels.

There’s scope for 26x1.5 including mudguards, ample braze-ons, so a very practical mixed terrain beast of burden.  Old inner tube bound around the top tube will protect it from accidental damage, say when locking up in the street. It’s also useful for hiding decals, which might alert a thief to its value.  Ursula, Muffin and Denise all feature racks and mudguards for practicality. While out testing kit, I like to run the odd errand-stopping by a post box and dropping off a package at the post office, posting some cards, a quick stop off at the bakers, or greengrocers. A 5–10-minute detour, so a stout lock joins the spare tubes, pumps and everyday tools.

 Racks and panniers have fallen out of fashion slightly and might even seem out of place on a gravel bike. Bike packing luggage certainly has its place and is arguably more aerodynamic into the bargain. However, they can also leave marks where they rest against paintwork (unless you’ve applied helicopter tape).

On a working bike, its much less hassle to remove and drop a cosmetically tatty rack, rather than a frameset at the powder coaters-although prevention’s always better than cure. I tend to dress racks in old inner tube to prevent abrasion damage.  Topeak Uni Super Tourist comes in standard Topeak Uni SuperTourist 2.0 NonDisc Rack | cycling-not-racing and disc brake versions. M Part Summit M Part Summit Rear Rack | cycling-not-racing is another very solid example. Being a two-tier design mean it’s much easier to pair panniers and a rack top bag. A small, but potentially significant consideration, depending upon your needs.  

When it comes to luggage, waterproof fabrics (and construction) are best and not necessarily expensive. Lomo Zephyr Lomo Zephyr Waterproof Panniers | cycling-not-racing  and Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier Oxford Aqua V20 Single Pannier | cycling-not-racing are excellent examples.  Don’t fancy racks or panniers? Carradice’s SQR range of quick release post mounted luggage could be a winner. I’ve run their Carradry CARRADICE CARRADRY SQR BAG | cycling-not-racing for many years, on and off. It will manage ten kilos of kit (although being mounted relatively high, this has a palpable impact upon handling. It also consumes a generous amount of seat post.), is waterproof in the hell n’ high water sense and feels literally bombproof.   

These are just my thoughts, Tell me yours and indeed, about your working bike(s).

Michael Stenning