PEATY'S BICYCLE ASSEMBLY GREASE
The Peaty’s Bicycle Assembly Grease is a bike-specific blend. “Assembly” implies its primarily intended for contact points, threaded components and stuff that doesn’t move but needs to remain corrosion and seizure free. However, it’s also brewed for generic greasing duties, where durability is key. While there’s more friction than its speed grease stablemate, there’s no reason it shouldn’t be used to pack hubs, headsets, pedals and traditional cup ‘n’ cone bottom brackets.
Pros: Durable, economical easy to apply, harmless to composite and rubberised components.
Cons: Nothing obvious to date and given the design brief.
In common with its speed sibling, the Assembly Grease is made from synthetic base oils and synthetic Esters. The latter are apparently cultivated from natural sources and more carefully synthesised than generic synthetic oils. These are blended for optimal bond to surfaces, employing an electrochemical bond with the host-metals.
Theoretically this means its more evenly distributed for optimal protection/lubrication without any unwanted chemical reaction, say between steel/aluminium alloy/titanium, composites etc. High resistance to washout means it should stay put, protecting against pitting and other damage that can ruin headsets and similar components on winter/workhorses. Especially mountain bikes, or those subjected to turbo trainer slavery.
Peaty’s say this grease can be applied by hand, brush, or grease gun. Arguably brushing is the most effective technique for seat posts, frame and other larger threaded components: the gun (or gloved fingers) better suited to hubs and headset bearings.
Though supposedly compatible with most oils, best to strip pre-existing greases, using your solvent/degreaser of choice and drying thoroughly beforehand. In common with other “stiff” greases, a little goes a reasonable distance and adheres nicely without being adversely affected by temperature variance. It turned a little softer when the mercury hit 28 degrees but not runny, or gooey. I was able to reclaim excess from seatposts to treat the collar bolts, three sets of bottle mounts and mudguard/carrier mounts.
Fixed gear winter trainer and Ursula were the most obvious recipients. Posts, pedals and fasteners were all treated to a moderate helping, although I noticed my 1991 road bike’s Thompson post was showing reluctance to move. A quick blast of penetrant spray and some short, deft taps with an engineer’s mallet sorted that. Once released, I applied a similar amount to the Thompson post and binder bolt, then refitted.
Though I reclaimed the excess for small fasteners and similar little jobs, I left a thin layer around the seat collar, where the post entered to seal out any mischievous wet stuff, without attracting dirt, or transferring to my shorts. Fixed gear trainer and Ursula also sport butyl “boots” to prevent dirt and ingress entering the frame, which would also test the grease’s rubber-friendly credentials.
The Peaty’s Assembly Grease’s viscosity and flow rate is closer in consistency to that of Park PPL-1 and clings to the host surfaces more convincingly than otherwise serviceable PTFE and lithium blends. No hint of corrosion on electroplated fasteners, bearings and races, metal seatposts and threaded components glide together very nicely and come apart with similar finesse. Aside from the bikes discussed I’ve applied it to quick release skewers, derailleur hanger and bottom bracket threads.
Headset bearings have felt buttery smooth and turn with similar finesse. Greases such as its speed counterpart and Muc-Off Bio Grease have an edge on the friction front, which again, is to be expected. I’d plump for them on a race, TT, or summer machine and reach for the Assembly Grease on a daily driver, tourer, or winter/mountain bike.
Long term stoicism is something we’ll explore come December, when we’ve had consistently harsher weather. Caustic salt, wet, greasy stuff and regular sudsy bucket washes thrown in for good measure. However, six weeks in, there’s plenty of blue clinging to components and fasteners, everything turns and releases with luxurious ease.
No less than we’d expect but certainly reassuring, given the diet of damp, sometimes saturated lanes. No evidence of it doing anything un-neighborly to seals and other rubberized/composite components either. It has also played nicely with traces of Park PPL, which I deliberately left on some crank bolts.
Excess from fasteners and threaded components has attracted light, filmy grime, but less gritty stuff than I’ve come to expect from bog standard PTFE and lithium-based preps.
£9.99 is competitive, aligned with similar quality, middleweight preparations. White Lightning Crystal Grease is more sophisticated and arguably superior for extending service periods in hell 'n’ high water contexts - commuters and utility riders being obvious audiences. Park PPL-1 is my default and £5.99 for 120ml.
Its more sophisticated HPG-1 counterpart is designed for the demands of high end, contemporary components and comes in at £13.99 for 120ml. Finish Line Ceramic Grease is £10.99 for 60ml and employs a mix of fluoropolymer, synthetic oils and Teflon. The latter isn’t kind to seals and other, rubberised/composite components, though.
The Peaty’s Assembly Grease is shaping up as a decent choice for threaded components and contact points. Seemingly kind to all surfaces, the nice flow rate and staying prowess also lends it to generic greasing duties - hubs and headsets being prime candidates.
Something like White Lightning Crystal may prove a better choice for hell n’ high water conditions but I’ll be back with a midwinter update.