Fortunately, if you follow Mike’s itinerary you will not be amongst the speedsters. In the pages before the introduction he offers schedules for 8, 10, 13, and 17 days. His route also offers alternatives. You can climb over the Bealach na Ba or head along the main road to Torridon; use the A9 (often an unpleasant traffic-experience, but with many sights of interest and more in the way of accommodation and refreshment, or follow an inland route through the empty straths of the interior; you can take the tiny Nigg-Cramarty ferry to access the Black Isle, or stick further from the coast).

 

Taking a leisurely itinerary to make the most of the scenery does not mean an easy ride on every section. Many newcomers will be surprised at how gentle most of the gradients are, but certain route choices give distinct challenges. The biggie is the Bealach na Ba, but the scenery is magnificent. On the coast route alternative, north of Stoer, comes what used to called “Breakdown Road.” Maybe it is my memory playing me false, but, having cycled that road a couple of times – the wonders of comparative youth – I feel the author understates the challenge (but the scenery is dramatic).

 

I’d also disagree with Mike about one or two other issues, but since disagreement is not an unknown phenomenon amongst touring cyclists, I won’t go on about those. In any case they are minor matters of preference – and, in my case, possibly, habit. However, as he points out, the NC500 may have brought more people to this neck of the woods, but much of it is still remote territory and you should be suitably prepared to deal independently with minor mechanicals, weather, midges (in my opinion, less of an issue in the far north than in the Western Highlands), and other situations. There are bike shops in several towns, and these are listed. However, there is only one on the west coast, at Scourie (repairs only). Usefully, Mike notes those that offer an out-of-hours service, and one that offers mobile repairs and another with bike hire.

 

There’s information on getting around on public transport with your bike – including the Durness bus company who will carry bikes (reservation necessary).

 

Accommodation information is now mainly on-line, with only four tourist information offices on the entire route – and two of those are commercially rather than Tourist Board run. The guide contains contacts, and also information about hostels, bunkhouses etc. There’s a list of campsites, and, as Mike points out, you may be able to camp elsewhere with the permission of the landowner. In reality, getting permission is easier said than done given the remote nature of much of the countryside in the west and north. Provided one is discrete, tidy, takes care of water, and respects the land use, then wild camping is a great way to get away from it all. Disgraceful behaviour – especially leaving waste of all kinds – by some wild campers and campervanners, has caused much displeasure and threatens the reputation of those that know how to camp in the wild and leave no trace.

 

As you’d expect from Cicerone, this is a very thorough and informative guide, really offering all you need to enjoy a journey around the NC500 (alright, it cannot guarantee sunshine and tail-winds, but who can?). This is a fascinating area, and I should be grateful, that Mike Wells has produced a route specifically for touring cyclists and introduced people who have never cycled in the far north to the joys of the wild open spaces. Updates are available on the book’s page on the Cicerone website.

 

So, buy the guide and go north!